Sunday, October 26, 2008

Offal!

For someone who makes an effort to eat vegetarian most of the time, I really love playing with meat. When I worked in a restaurant, during prep I'd try to trade with the other line cooks to get the raw-meat handling jobs that no one else wanted to do. Most people seem to be turned off by food that looks like a part of a dead animal. I'm totally cool with it. It is a dead animal, and there's nothing wrong with that.

My first significant culinary memory was when I was 8 and I made a roast chicken with stuffing. I wasn't just helping Mom by stirring the sauce, it was my meal from start to finish. (At least that's how I saw it at the time. I was 8, I'm sure I had a lot of help.) I learned that there were lots of parts of chicken- there were the obvious structural components, and then inside there were these slimy bloody organs. Seriously, that's a heart! That I just pulled out of a chicken! With my hand!

While I was standing on my little stool, gleefully elbows deep in my dissection, my little friend from down the street had ridden his bike over to hang out. I couldn't wait to show him what I found in the chicken. "Look, that's the heart, and that's the...what is it, mom? The liver. you can eat it." And that was enough to send him running out the door.

When I went to France this summer, I was lucky enough to have a very authentic gastronomical experience. Really traditional European cuisine seems to feature more offal, or at least more of the animal that you see in the US. Always inclined to order the thing I haven't had before, I ordered tete de veau (head of veal) at a restaurant, much to the delight of my European travel companion. Our waiter played the roll of arrogant frenchman to a tee- "Do you know what zat eez?" After delivery our meal, he checked back periodically to see if that Americainne knew what she'd gotten herself into. I think tete de veau is primarily the thymus glands, or sweetbreads. They're so soft and savory, the unctuousness that you'd expect from an internal organ is barely there they practically melt in your mouth.

Today I bought a little roaster chicken and I was very excited about it. I forgot that I was going get a handful of organs when I reached into the little guy. I set that aside and put my chicken and veggies together, with the intesnsion of making a stock out of all of it. But while my chicken roasted, that liver was calling my name. I'm not sure I've ever eaten liver. I don't think I know anyone who likes liver. But they look like they'd be kind of amazing, right?

Ok, that might not be a universal reaction. But in spite of never having eaten liver that I or anyone else prepared, I had to fry it up and see what happened. I chopped in up and spread it on crostini with sauteed onions and it was amazing. And, I have all the iron I need for a week.

And like they were reading my mind, Iron Chef America picks offal as the secret ingrediant. Well played.

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